Pumori Expedition Spring 2014 – 35 Days
A moderately technical pyramid snow and rock mountain, Mt. Pumori is perhaps the most popular mountain among the 7000er Himalayas of Nepal. Climbing Pumori proves an ideal preparation for those aspiring for the more technical 8000m peaks including the Mt Everest. Mount Pumori lies in the Khumbu Region of Nepal 8km west of Mount Everest along Nepal-Tibet Border. First ascended in 1964 by a German Swiss expedition team, the name Pumori means an unmarried daughter in the Sherpa language. Although a 7,000er, Mt. Pumari is technically challenging mountain offering sections of wild exposure requiring climbers to have previous mountaineering experience and with excellent physical fitness level. The ascent to the Pumori is rewarded with stunning photographic views of snowy mountains including Lhotse and Everest.
Our plan is to attempt a summit via the Standard Route on the South East Ridge, a grade 3 snow and ice climb that requires a good understanding of alpine climbing techniques and familiarity with the effects of high altitude. We take the classic route along the South-East Ridge. Generally three camps are set up above the base camp. The Base camp will be set up at 5300m. Climb through the glaciers for approx. 4 hours and reach Camp 1 at 5700m. From Camp 1, we climb the face with 40-60 degrees slope and pass through a snow wall to reach camp 2 at 6200m. From camp 2, climb through ice walls and crevasses to reach Camp 3 at 6480m. Passing through crevasses, climb up to Pumori cliff and then to the summit.
Day 01: Kathmandu arrival and Transfer to hotel
Upon your arrival in the Tribhuvan international airport, our representative will welcome you and will assist to transfer you in your hotel in Kathmandu. You may relax at your hotel or go around for shopping. In the evening MSM Tour and Trekking will organize welcome dinner for you in one of the typical Nepalese restaurant in the heart of Kathmandu meanwhile briefing about your adventurous trip will take place. Overnight at hotel.
Day 02-03 : At leisure in Kathmandu
Sightseeing and Preparation for Pumori Expedition. While the leader attends a formal briefing in the Ministry of Tourism, you will explore the fascinating city of Kathmandu. You will visit famous Stupa, Boudhnath and the popular Hindu pilgrimage site, Pashupatinath Temple. In the late afternoon, the leader will check everyone’s equipment, as Kathmandu is the last opportunity to buy anything missing. You will also get introduced with fellow expedition members and guides. Overnight at hotel.
Day 04 : Fly Kathmandu to Lukla
An early morning scenic flight to Lukla. In Lukla, we will meet our camp staff and porters and set off straightaway for our first night’s stop at Phakding. Situated on the banks of the Dudh Kosi which drains the whole of the Khumbu region, Phakding on the main trade route through the area and there are a number of clean well-built lodges where we can spend the night.
Day 05 : Trek to Namche Bazar
Continue up the banks of the Dudh Kosi, crossing it twice by small suspension bridges before reaching the village of Monjo where we will enter the Khumbu National Park. Cross the confluence of the Dudh Kosi and the Bhote Kosi on a high suspension bridge and climb steeply for about two hours to reach Namche Bazaar. This is a prosperous trading town and the capital of the Khumbu region with genuine Tibetan artifacts.
Day 06 : At leisure in Namche Bazar
This day you trek 6hrs from Chutanga to Khartitang (3900m); after 2 days of acclimatization at 3900m you are ready to cross Zatrawa La Pass (4610m) and down climb to Khartitang at 3900m. You get overnight tented camp accommodation in full board basis.
Day 07 : Trek to Thyangboche
The well worn Everest trail contours around the side of the valley high above the Dudh Kosi. Follow the path, savoring the first really good views of the great peaks of the Khumbu: Everest, Lhotse, Nuptse and Ama Dablam. Passing by several villages and numerous tea shops, cross the Dudh Kosi River and make a steep climb to Thyangboche, home of an impressive and newly rebuilt monastery.
Day 08 : Trek to Dingboche
Shaded by rhododendron trees, the path leads gradually down to the river once again to another airy suspension bridge. An hour’s walking from here brings us to Pangboche, an excellent viewpoint for Ama Dablam. Contouring up the valley side, re-cross the river and turn up the Imja valley to reach the picturesque farming village of Dingboche.
Day 09 : Acclimatization
This is an important phase of the expedition. Dingboche is a good location for acclimatization. The team leader will organize daily outings to the adjacent hills with the aim of providing gradual acclimatization. Walk some of the nearby hills in order to slowly increase exposure to altitude. Follow the regime that you have previously found most suitable, in order to give you maximum acclimatization before arrive in base camp.
While in Dingboche, we can attend a seminar on high altitude acclimatization at a hospital run by the Himalayan Rescue Association nearby Pheriche. The walk over to Pheriche and back will also serve as good acclimatization training.
Day 10 : Trek to Lobuche
Retrace back to Pheriche before continuing up the trail towards base camp. Reach Dugla situated below the snout of the Khumbu Glacier, a convenient place for lunch. After lunch, the trail starts steeply to climb up beside the glacier moraine. After a couple of hours the track eventually leads to a small cluster of tea houses pleasantly situated at Lobuche.
Day 11 : Trek to Pumori Base Camp
Contouring along the valley-side and looking down on the Khumbu Glacier, follow a reasonable trail to Gorak Shep. This was the site of the base camp in 1953 and now consists of a few small tea houses. Leaving Gorak Shep, the trail leads on to the moraine of the Khumbu Glacier and becomes quite vague, weaving between mounds of rubble and eventually reaching base camp near the foot of the Khumbu Icefall. This will be our home for the next six weeks.
Day 12: Rest, Acclimatization and preparation
Day 13-27: Ascent of Mt Pumori
Day 28: Withdraw to base camp
All team members return to base camp and assist with packing expedition stores and cleaning the base camp area.
Day 29: Retrace to Lobuche
Day 30: Trek to Pangboche
Day 31: Trek to Namche
Day 32: Trek to Lukla
Day 33: Fly to Kathmandu
We will return to the welcome haven of the Hotel. Once back in Kathmandu, MSM Tour and Treks will host an evening barbecue to celebrate the expedition and as a farewell party to thank the Sherpas for their support and friendship.
Day 34: Free day in Kathmandu
Today the journey comes to an end. There’s nothing to do but trade emails with your new friends, organize all your photos and final preparation for departure from Nepal.
Day 35: Airport transfer for return flight
- Expedition permit fees
- Accommodations in Kathmandu
- All overnight accommodations while on the trek and climb
- Meals in Kathmandu and while trekking and climbing
- Group equipment for the climb
- Qualified and Experienced guides
- Experienced Climbing Sherpas
- High Altitude Climbing Sherpas
- Airport transfers
- Satellite phone service
- Oxygen (2 4-litre bottles)
- International airfare and Nepal Visa fee
- Personal equipments and extra services
- Tips and Bonus for Staff and guide
- Insurance and Trip cancellation
- Airport departure tax